We left Puerto Escondido the morning after the big Norther turned out to be nothing much, at least at Marina Puerto Escondido. Over the course of the morning, the winds came up a bit and by the time we left they were around 15 knots from the N. Not a problem for us. Our run for the day was a short two hours to Puerto Ballandra on Isla Carmen, which was reported to have good North wind and wave protection. We planned to sit out the next Norther there, due in a couple of days.
Coming out of Puerto Escondido and turning N into the channel between Isla Danzante and Isla Carmen we could see that the seas had been raised a bit by the presumably stronger winds farther north, but wind speeds were still low at around 10 knots or so. Things started picking up after an hour or so into the middle of the channel. The winds were now more in the 15 knot range, we were starting to see whitecaps on the waves and the seas were building into at least the 5-7 ft range. Soon it started to feel like practice for the Baja bash, with the boat pitching into the occasionally large waves. We had a few instances of “bow slap”, where the bulbous bow on the boat comes out of the water and then slams back in. It’s quite noisy but otherwise harmless. We were taking lots of spray and were very happy that we had invested in interval wipers. They got a workout keeping the salt water off the pilot house forward windows. At the very end it got quite sporty, with the winds exceeding 20 knots and lots of wind waves on top of the swell. We were happy to pull into Puerto Ballandra, which was indeed well protected from the swell.
A couple of weather lessons learned for me were: 1) If there is a Norther in the Sea, even if your local area is unaffected, it is going to create some swell. 2) With the fetch, 15-20 knot winds will cause the seas to build quickly. Nothing that we experienced was remotely close to dangerous and was not even uncomfortable. However, the motion did cause Gwen to have a mild bout of seasickness – enough to have her hang out in the salon where there was less motion. She had made the mistake of reading while underway while it was rough. Our goal is really to avoid even conditions like this. I think we may have been a touch too eager to get off the dock.
There were two sailboats tucked into the N end of the bay when we arrived but we had enough room to get into the NW corner next to them. The bay has excellent protection from waves, but not so much from the winds, which funnel right down the hills to the North. We hardly needed to back down on the anchor – the 20+ knots of wind did it for us. It looked like we were catching the Norther a day late. We saw 25+ knot winds in the anchorage for several hours. We were also experiencing some rolling from swell wrapping around the point. When the wind died down a bit we decided to put out the flopper stopper and got it almost ready to drop in the water when, yes, the winds kicked back up. We pulled it back in, untangled the lines and got it dropped quickly in the next calm period. Things were all comfy after that.
The next morning the two sailboats that we shared the anchorage left and we decided to move to a better position at the head of the bay. Of course by this time the winds and a tiny bit of swell were coming from the SW so we knew we would need to reset the anchor again before the next Norther kicked in on Sunday. After getting set we had a lazy day exploring in the dinghy, reading, having a “Bloody Michelada” with lunch, playing a bit with fishing gear and Gwen going for a late afternoon kayak. It was a bit cool and cloudy in the morning (by Mexico standards) but the sun came out in the afternoon.
Because this area is so close to Loreto, it has clearly been quite picked over for shells. The few we found on the beach were quite aged, along with a fair amount of dead coral. There are some good shallow rocky areas that are supposed to be good for snorkeling – perhaps we will try them on our way back down in a month or two. We didn’t walk deeper into the island – there are big horn sheep and an active hunting lodge nearby, and a very marshy swampy area between the beach and the hills.
We were able to join the monthly Nordhavn 50 owners call. We had enough cell signal from Loreto across the way to join the Zoom video call.
After a peaceful night we began preparing for the Norther, bringing the dinghy and kayak back on board and resetting the anchor with more than enough scope for the expected winds.
Speaking of resetting the anchor, I’d like to touch on the topic of Anchoring Etiquette. Do a google search and you will find many articles on anchoring etiquette, that is, how to safely share an anchorage with your fellow boaters. The general rule of thumb is that the first boat into an anchorage deploys their anchor as they see fit and other boats have the responsibility to anchor such that they do not collide with that first boat. It is often not as straightforward as it sounds as you are trying to optimize depth and protection from the prevailing conditions. It gets more complicated – power boats tend to swing differently than sailboats, and how much your boat swings depends on how much and what type of anchor rode you put out. I’d like to propose a corollary to the general rule of thumb. Please don’t anchor immediately upwind of me when we are expecting a Norther.
Some time after we reset the anchor another boat came into the anchorage and came by to ask how much chain we had out. It was very good form for them to ask, and we told them how much chain we had out and that there was good holding off our starboard side. What did they do? Anchored directly in front of us. Now the winds had picked up a bit, but were nowhere near the 30 knots we would see later in the day. If they dragged anchor, they would be right on top of this. I got on the hailer and expressed my concern telling them that I hoped they were well set because they were right on top of our anchor and would tangle with us if they dragged. Eventually they called us back and after some discussion moved over to a (perfectly fine) spot to the west of us.
We happily settled in for lunch when another boat came into the anchorage. This was a boat that was in the anchorage when we arrived but then left. They, too, dropped right in front of us, even though there was room on our starboard side. They realized that they were too close and moved, but then came back… splitting the distance between us and the sailboat that had come in earlier. At least in this case, if they dragged, they would slide between us. They came by for a visit by dinghy later and we learned that they were accomplished sailors, having come over from Europe via the Pacific and had been out cruising for 9 years. That gave us confidence that they knew how to anchor their boat securely. It seems to me that coming into an anchorage, particularly in windy conditions, the best thing to do would be to drop your anchor perhaps even with the boats nearby, and then fall back behind them as you let out your rode. This way, you swing clear and don’t have to worry about dragging back on your neighbors.
We all sat through about 48 hours of the Norther, with winds up to 33 knots and swell coming into the anchorage and breaking on the beach. When it finally settled down on Tuesday morning, we all cleared out of the anchorage, with us heading for Isla Coronados, an extinct Volcano only 8 miles north of Puerto Ballandra. There was still some residual swell left from the Norther and the winds were up into the 10-15 knot range. Apparently my memory for lessons learned is short.
The main anchorage at Isla Coranados is on the West side of the Island, with a big white sand beach North of a long sandspit and a small Islet to the West. The other anchorage is South of the sandspit in the shadow of the 900+ foot volcanic cone. We approached from the South and went around to the main anchorage though the narrow and shallow pass between the sandspit and the Islet. It was exciting in the choppy conditions and heading over to the anchorage, it was clear that we would have no shelter. So around back to the South side where we anchored in 25 ft of crystal clear water below a low bluff. The anchorage was open, so was exposed to swell wrapping around the point. Out went the flopper stopper again to smooth things out. It was blowing about 15-20 here for a while before things calmed down in the evening. We did spend a pleasant afternoon on the beach and Gwen explored the paths that are part of the park system.
We went to sleep with the lights of Loreto to the SW, and woke up in the morning seeing the fishing fleet working the dropoff just to the south of the anchorage. We decided that this was not the place to ride out the next norther, so got ready to head on up to San Juanico. It was very cool picking up the anchor in the crystal clear water. We could clearly see the chain laid in a nice straight line along the bottom, and as we retrieved it we could see where the anchor had buried itself deeply in the sand, with only the shank visible. It was reassuring to see how well the anchor dug itself in!