We left Hoonah a few days ago and headed down the east coast of Chichagof Island toward Tenakee Inlet. The weather was rainy and the trees were dense on the sloping walls of the island. Often we didn’t see any boats for long stretches of times, and there were no homes at all. It was beautiful. At one point we did see a number of purse seiners all working close together off a point.
The weather picked up and things were getting choppy when we saw at least 10 whale blows near the shore, so despite the choppy waves we stopped and watched for a while. Then we turned into Tenakee Inlet to head to the village of Tenakee Springs.
I was beginning to think there was no village after all when suddenly the community appeared behind a rock outcropping. The town has about 120 year round residents, and is a vacation spot for folks from Juneau.
We pulled into the harbor and tied up at what we were fairly sure was the transient dock since no one mans the harbor office, and paid at the honor system box. We walked into town to explore. There is a single dirt road leading through the village, lined with some pretty nice homes and in the center of town the key post office, shop and hot springs building. One side of the road is the shore side and the other goes steeply uphill into dense woods, so homes on that side are built into the hills with steep stairs and sometimes tram systems to get supplies up.
We walked a long way so did need to use the public toilet.
People were quite friendly and told us about the hot springs – its community run and has been there for many decades, one man said he didn’t think the community would be there if it weren’t for the hot springs.
We all took advantage of a soak the next morning before departing during our respective gender hours. It was great – very hot and relaxing. The water flows at a good pace out of cracks in the rocks around which a cement soaking tub was build, and around that is the building with nice cedar changing room.
After Blue Mouse Cove we headed further south in the Bay to
Sandy Cove. This area has several islands
and coves to anchor in, and shallow shore ledges where whales like to feed. We anchored in North Sandy Cove and spent the
next two days watching incredible amounts of wildlife from our deck and by
kayak and dingy.
During the first evening we were visited by a sea lion who spent a half hour next two our boat surfacing and diving repeatedly and breathing hard, working on something down below. We speculated either there was an epic battle going on underneath us or he was just feeding really hard.
The birdsongs from land were also the richest I have heard on this trip. I could pick out at least 10 different songs – although I have no idea what birds they are from. This was a wonderful difference from some other areas where the crows seem to dominate. In a previous anchorage they were quite irritating – I want to tell them to let the other birds get a chance!
Larry tried putting down a crab pot in an area two coves over, but we should have known that the presence of curious otters meant there wouldn’t be any crab left. When we went into the area, one very curious otter watched us and would dive down then surface a little closer to the dingy each time, standing way up in the water – they use their flipper feet to propel their upper bodies up to get a good look at things. Wished I had my camera. He finally spent a few seconds just a few feet in front of us looking at us, then dove and swam away.
When Larry went to get the empty crab pot the next morning
by himself, he had a close encounter with whales. He was surrounded by two humpbacks surfacing and
one breeching very close to him, one on each side. Nowhere to go but sit and bang on the dingy
to make sure they knew he was there. Humpbacks
don’t have echolocation so if you are silent they don’t know you’re there, so
advice is to make noise.
We kayaked around the area watching eagles and other sea
birds. Before dinner we spent an hour
out in the Bay in the dingy just watching the whales – they were all around near
the shores. Still
quite smoky so I didn’t take much in way of photos – just absorbed it all
On our last full day we headed back to Bartlett Cove. On the way we stopped alongside Marble Island – a sea lion and sea bird refuge. Boats are allowed within 50 yards so it was easier to get some good photos. The one thing the photos can’t capture is the noise of the lions barking and grunting and groaning and the birds all calling – it was intense!
Last Monday dawned even more opaque with smoke. We could barely see Reid Glacier a mile away. The weather prediction was for smoke and low winds the next several days. We determined we would press ahead on our plan and see what happens.
Puffins! I got my
wish – orange beaks appeared in the haze, the two birds floating on the
water. These would be the only puffins we
saw during the week.
We negotiated through many icebergs in Tarr Inlet on the way
in to Margerie Glacier, particularly to avoid the smaller chewed up bits from
the cruise ship in front of us. They
reflected the sunlight in otherwise murky haze and appear like white beacons in
Cracking sounds were fairly frequent but no calving happened while we gazed at the glacier for an hour or so, although some ice did fall.
On our way out of Tarr Inlet we picked out seals lounging on icebergs, but sometimes what we thought were seals turned out to be very dirty ice. We really didn’t see any good examples of bergie ice to harvest for drinks this time.
We then headed into Johns Hopkins Inlet to see Lamplugh and Johns Hopkins Glacier. Lamplugh was easy to see with very few icebergs around it. It had a distinct blue tinge and an amphitheater of ice carved out of its’ face. As we approached Johns Hopkins though, the ice in the water became pretty dense and we decided the better call was to turn around rather than risk our propeller.
By the evening we made our way into Blue Mouse Cove, one of
the recommended anchorages encompassed within a grassy and wooded cove made up
of two islands and a peninsula. We
anchored alone and woke up alone. Two
cruise ships a day are allowed in Glacier Bay, and a total of 25 private
vessels are allowed to be present on any given day, so we have not seen a lot
of boat traffic.
Larry spotted a black bear disappearing into the woods in
the evening, and I stayed up late listening to whales outside the cove and
seeing their spouts. The greenery around
us gave some contrast to the smoky hazy air around us and made us feel like it
was not such an apocalyptic landscape.
We left Glacier Bay in the fog this morning to make the 30 mile crossing of Icy Strait to Hoonah. It was a glassy calm morning and along the way we saw a bunch of fishing boats anchored in the Strait, presumably fishing for Halibut.
We arrived in the Harbor, which is amazingly well protected with huge rock breakwaters all around, and got moorage at the transient dock – no power, no potable water (but cheap). I heard there was good crabbing in Hoonah, so I asked the Harbor master about it. He said right around behind the breakwater in 20(!) feet of water. So I went over and dropped a pot – there were plenty of others in the area so I assumed it was pretty good.
I decided to check the pot after dinner, since my limit is three per day. Here is what I saw when I pulled it up after a three hour soak.
I didn’t count carefully, but I think there were 8-10 males in there and probably half of keeper size (6.5″). I took the three biggest, released the rest and re-baited the pot. Hoping for more of the same tomorrow!
We also saw some local fishermen come in with a huge haul of Halibut, probably 8-10 of various sizes. The largest must have been 5 ft long and weighed who knows how much… must have been 100+ lbs. Here is a photo of the two big ones. Too bad there is nothing to give a sense of scale.
Barn door Halibut.
Gwen bought a Fishing License and we pulled up six more (the limit for two licenses) this morning.
We love Hoonah! And not just for the crabbing… the local restaurant, the Fisherman’s Daughter, is outstanding!
After anchoring overnight on the 5th in Swanson Cove, we made our way to the entrance of Glacier Bay National Park and into Bartlett Cove for our required orientation and overnight stay in the Cove, the prelude to nearly a week’s stay in the Bay.
Since we left Juneau, the smoke in the air has continued to increase. We are not sure when it will abate – there is no prediction of rain for some time. But it’s not changing our plans.
The waters in and around Glacier Bay are full of nutrients for whales and other animals and we saw many humpbacks feeding near shore both days. We could sometimes see half a dozen blows at once. It was awe inspiring to think of so many large creatures near us in the water.
Glacier Bay really didn’t exist 250 years ago. The story of how it came to be what it is today
is an amazing one of natural disaster and cultural resilience. In the mid-1700s, the glacier that was way at
the top of the area we now call the bay, which was land at the time, suddenly
experienced a glacier surge. This means it pushed forward many miles in a
matter of days. The Tlingits described
it as “moving as fast as a dog could run”, and scientific evidence has born
this out. They had to pack up their
village and escape quickly by canoe.
They re-established in the area 25 miles away across Icy Strait that is
now called Hoonah. There were natural
disasters around the world at the same time, including two massive volcano
eruptions, that led to the “mini Ice-age” and a couple of years of no summers
and no growing seasons. There are
descriptions of how this affected many cultures around the world. I had heard about the mini Ice-Age but had no
idea that volcano eruptions were part of the explanation for it.
Over the subsequent century, the ice in Glacier Bay retreated quite quickly and left the very large bay which exists today. In the 1920s the Natural Park Service (NPS) created the park after writings from John Muir and others increased awareness of it, but did this without consulting the Tlingits who had resettled summer fish camps in the area.
The Park Service eventually kicked the Tlingits out completely, which led to many hard feelings for decades. However,in the current century there has been a great deal of work between the NPS and the Tlingit to create reconciliation, and we saw several new installations at Bartlett Cove that are part of that.
Just two years ago the Tribal House opened at the cove. It is a beautiful example of native carving and artisanship.
The healing totem pole went up last year to depict that history of the area over the last 300 years and the recent reconciliation between the Tlingits and NPS. We heard the stories of the pole and the Tribal House at an evening presentation by an NPS ranger and a Tlingit cultural interpreter.
We left Bartlett Cove the next morning and battled a fierce current over 5 knots in Sitakaday Narrows to make our way north 60 miles up the bay towards the glaciers. Unfortunately, the smoke was even thicker than the day before. We could tell there were stupendous mountain ranges around us but could barely see them. In the afternoon we anchored in Reid Harbor, a mile in front of Reid Glacier. This glacier has receded far enough that it does not enter the water or calve anymore. We dingy explored up close to get a good view – the stark gravel and silt landscape around the edges of the glacier was broken up by rushing streams of melt water pouring into the bay. The walls of the bay were a thousand feet high or more, with a lunar landscape of bare rock alternating with what we could tell was low greenery, but it was so smoky we didn’t get much feel of greenery or blue sky.
The highlight of this stay was watching the family of orca
with at least two juveniles that entered and spent some time feeding on the
opposite side of the cove. Mom
eventually led the group out the mouth of the cove again, leaving us feeling privileged
for having seen such a healthy orca group – a real contrast to what we see in
Thursday the 4th was a record breaking heat-wave day in
Juneau and we spent it outside. After doing a final grocery shopping stop for
perishables, we decided to take in some sights.
First we took the Tram above the town to explore Mount Roberts and see the city and scenery from on high. The Tram and the Nature and Visitors Centers are owned and operated by the Tlingits, and we got a slightly different perspective on history and learned more about their culture and how they are reviving it. We did a short hike to a high vista and Father Roberts cross, getting eaten alive by bugs as we did so! The views were worth it.
We took a lunch break and I tried to cool off in the shade- obviously I have some heat acclimatization to do before we get to Mexico! While I was sitting in the shade an eagle swooped onto the dock to grab some scraps.
Then we set off for Mendenhall glacier late in the day, which was a great choice because the majority of the cruise ship folks had departed the site so it wasn’t awfully crowded. The smoke had started to filter into the air but the view of the glacier and the waterfall next to it were still stunning. We walked the Trail of Time path which had marked where the ice was through the last century – it was quite sobering to stand there in over 80 degree heat realizing that the spot we were standing on, quite far away from the glacier, had been part of the glacier less than 100 years ago.
The next morning we headed to the fuel dock to top off before heading north. We were treated to both a cool whale fountain on the shore and actual whales not long after leaving the dock!
Yesterday was busy with various resupply runs and boat tasks prior to our daughter Miranda’s arrival on the flight in from Seattle. We learned from Ashley at the Harbor Master’s office that there would be fireworks at 11:59 PM tonight (July 3rd). The reason given was that the mine had the 4th as a holiday and therefore wanted all of the workers to have their celebration hangovers on that day rather than the 5th!
We got Miranda settled in, got groceries put away and had a very nice (second) birthday dinner at local restaurant Salt, where, by the way, I had to request salt for my salad. Everyone had a little chuckle about that.
After dinner we came back to the boat and waited for the fireworks. I took the opportunity to grab a quick nap – the only way at my advanced age to last until midnight. All of the cruise ships departed and we had a clear view of Gastineau Channel where it appeared that the fireworks barge was setting up right in front of us. We had front row seats to a fantastic 20 minute display. It was especially fun to hear the explosions reverberate against the mountains on either side of the channel.
The plan for today is to do a little more shopping/provisioning, maybe get out to Mendenhall Glacier, maybe watch the parade. Tomorrow we are off towards Glacier Bay.